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Mailing List ~ Newsletter>
Tajumulco, San Marcos
October 1, 2003
VILLAGE PROFILE
Tajumulco, San Marcos, Guatemala
After many miles on a muddy washboard road we (Dan and Rudi Taylor - Happy Mango Imports) came to a turnoff that we suspected was the road that would lead us to the village of Tajumulco. There were several men standing at this intersection, we asked if this was indeed the way to Tajumulco and if the road was passable in our small car, as it was the rainy season and Guatemalan dirt roads notoriously treacherous during this time. One of the men confirmed that this was the correct route, it was passable and could he “have a lift?” Antonio was a dentist who lives in San Lorenzo, nearly 40km away. Every Sunday he journeys to Tajumulco to perform tooth extractions. With Antonio as our tour guide we traveled another 9 kilometers down a rough, steep road, riddled with hairpin turns and washouts, all the while marveling at the beauty surrounding us as we were in the shadow of the tallest peak in Central America, Volcan Tajumulco, a dormant volcano
that towers nearly 14,000 feet high. The village which is
it’s namesake is neatly tucked into the volcano’s rugged
slopes along the Tuichan River.
Our purpose for this adventure was to photograph Tajumulco
for a client whose granddaughter was born there. We
suspected it’s ideal, picturesque setting, surrounded by
breathtaking vistas and neighboring peaks would make this
village a perfect subject. As the road twisted along the
shoulder of the volcano we saw lush green patchwork
landscape set amidst rugged precipices that overlooked
cloud draped valleys. The weather can be unpredictable
during the rainy season; we hoped for some sunshine and
dreaded the rain which usually begins in the afternoon. We
left our hotel in San Marcos just before sunrise and
arrived in Tajumulco at 8:30am. The daily market was
already in full swing. We said farewell to our passenger
and proceeded to park our car near the center of town.
It was immediately apparent and not surprising that gringos
were not a common sight in this village. Smiles were
abundant and the people were extremely friendly. It was
not unusual for the locals to approach us, introduce
themselves and chat a little. One elder gentleman told us
with pride how the people of Tajumulco grow all of the food
they need and claims they have the best vegetables in all
of Guatemala. One glance at the produce in the market and
it was easy to believe him.
The village was very photogenic, full of beauty and
character. Most of the women and girls wear the huipiles
(blouses) similar to those of Quetzaltenango, with
colorful, embroidered flowers surrounding the neckline.
They wear the lovely, hand woven ikat cortes (wrap style
skirts) of Totonicapan. The men of the area no longer wear
traditional dress.
Two men, brothers and both farmers, told us stories about
Volcan Tajumulco. The mountain is the subject of much
superstition and ceremony. Many of these ceremonies
require ritual sacrifice upon the volcano’s peak. Shamans
aid the villagers in these rituals which involve everything
from success in marriage and protection from earthquakes to
“what color should the new cantina be painted?”
We were impressed with the quality of life these people
enjoy. We were however told that life in this village can
be a bit perilous at time, as landslides triggered by
earthquakes are regular occurrences. A mother of 3 told us
how their home was demolished on a Sunday morning while
they were attending church service. “Gracias por Dios,”
she thanked God, as it was clear to her that he had saved
their lives.
As the afternoon sun was rapidly disappearing and the black
storm clouds were rolling in, we realized it was time to
depart (while we still could). Just as the road to the
village plummeted steeply, the 9km accent was equally
harrowing. Even though the local men, women and children
are accustomed to the difficult task of walking up the
road, many were relieved by the free taxi service we
provided as we made our way back out of the valley.
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